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As three-star restaurants go vegan, top chef remakes classic

(Bloomberg) – Editor’s Note: As more people work from home, Bloomberg Pursuits publishes a weekly Lunch Break column that highlights a remarkable recipe from a favorite cookbook and the hack that makes it a genius. by burgers, but now chefs at the highest ranks in the culinary world are throwing themselves on board. Eleven Madison Park, which has been ranked as the world’s best restaurant, revealed the menu will be mostly vegan when it reopens on June 10 in Manhattan. In Healdsburg, Calif., Kyle and Katina Connaughton, owners of the three-Michelin-starred SingleThread farm and restaurant, announced that they would be opening an herbal restaurant and cafe in the downtown wine country at the end of summer. Chefs, like their customers, are motivated by everything from health and environmental concerns to the desirability of being creative with plant-based foods. “A piece of fish, meat – there aren’t that many ways to prepare them. If you have a beet, an eggplant, the opportunities are endless, ”EMP chef-owner Daniel Humm told Bloomberg. The vegan market continues to grow. Retail sales of plant-based foods reached $ 7 billion in 2020 and increased 27% in the past year; According to the Plant-Based Food Association, $ 2.1 billion was invested in plant-based food companies last year. Beef, meanwhile, could become the new coal. In the UK, the famous four-year-old Root restaurant in Bristol is not a strictly vegan establishment. But it has been at the forefront of vegetables since its inception and continues to evolve towards a more vegetal menu. “We opened Root with at least six sides of meat or fish; now we have one – sometimes two – on the menu, ”says chef and owner Rob Howell. Howell has compiled his best recipes from his restaurant at Root: Small Vegetable Plates, A Small Meat on the Side (Bloomsbury; $ 32). Like the restaurant, the book is not vegan: in addition to a chapter dealing with meat, fish and shellfish, there is a cheese section. But most of the book is devoted to alluring veggie dishes, with several vegan recipes that don’t hit your head with their labels, like the fried celeriac which can be made with oat milk in place of the. buttermilk and spring onions tempura. with sweet chili sauce. But above them all, the old-fashioned mushrooms on toast. “We have an amazing mushroom grower near the restaurant, which means they’re available year round,” Howell explains of the dish, which is a menu staple at Racine The dish is the Platonic Ideal Mushroom Soup and Sandwich: Quick and simply tender pieces of sautéed mushrooms are stacked on bread under a creamy sauce that runs down the sides. Howell is smart at serving his version on focaccia – the puffy, oil-infused base makes it even more monumental. It’s especially nice for spring, when fresh mushrooms abound in farmers’ markets after a rainy day. Although Howell proclaims mushrooms on toast as “one of those classic dishes that are best not to meddle with.” He does a sleight of hand with the signature cream sauce, accompanied by thick and easy-to-prepare almond milk. The end result is, as the cliché says, a dish you wouldn’t know to be vegan. The ‘creamy’ almond and tangy green pepper sauce – with an optional dash of brandy and hot sauce that offsets the sweetness of the nuts – is also excellent on tofu, rice, and anywhere you want a silky sop with a bite that also offers a powerful dose of comfort. (It’s detailed below so you can do that separately.) For those of us who don’t cook the vegan way often enough, this also hints at the work that is currently going on behind the scenes of a handful. of the best American cuisines – and what we’re about to see. The following recipe is adapted from Root, by Rob Howell. Testers Note: Classic Worcestershire Sauce contains anchovies. Vegan versions are available at specialty food stores and by mail order. Mushrooms on toast with almond cream Serves 4 For the sauce 5 oz. whole or slivered blanched almonds (about 1 ½ cups) 2 oz. good quality olive oil 1 ¼ cup water ½ cup vegan Worcestershire sauce, plus more to taste 2 tbsp. green peppercorns in brine, drained 1 tsp. Dijon mustard, plus more to taste 1 tsp. Sugar Pocket of cracked black pepper Pocket of salt Splash of Tabasco (optional) Splash of brandy (optional), to taste For mushrooms 3 tbsp. vegetable oil 12 oz. wild or good quality mushrooms, large pieces cut into bite-size pieces 1 tbsp. lemon juice 2 tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley 4 squares of focaccia For the pepper sauce, place the almonds, oil and water in a food processor and mix until smooth. Strain through a sieve into a bowl, pressing down on the solid. Place the Worcestershire sauce, peppercorns, mustard, sugar, pepper, salt and Tabasco (optional) in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Boil until liquid has reduced by about two-thirds, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the almond milk and let the sauce boil again. Reduce the heat and simmer for 2 minutes, giving the sauce a good whisk to mix well. Check the seasoning and add a little brandy or a little more mustard to taste, if necessary. Reserve and keep warm. For the mushrooms, heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms and season with a good amount of salt (it’s surprising how much salted mushrooms can take). Let the mushrooms cook for 30 seconds, then toss them in the pan and cook for another 30 seconds, until tender. Add the lemon juice and chopped parsley. Remove from the heat and taste to check the seasoning. In the meantime, preheat the grill or a drip pan. Grill the foccacio until golden brown on both sides. If necessary, reheat the pepper sauce. If it is too thick, loosen it with a mixture of water and olive oil. To serve, pour the mushrooms over the focaccia toast and top them with the hot pepper sauce.For more items like this please visit us at bloomberg.comSign up now to stay ahead with the source most reliable business information. © 2021 Bloomberg LP

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